What we loved about Istanbul

Istanbul is a city like no other in the world. It’s huge. It’s busy and vibrant. It is a melding of cultures unlike any other place we’ve been. We loved the incredible span of things to see. There’s more here than you could possibly process in three years, never mind three months. Some of the greatest sights in the world are here, and it’s incredibly exciting to experience it. There are lots of “pinch me” moments.

Istanbul is exotic and foreign feeling without being scary. The daily prayers floating from the mosques are beautiful and mysterious. The foods are approachable and delicious, yet quite different than what you might know. The city is large, and there are very diverse pockets within it with different characters and flavors. You can’t get bored. Because of the history and the importance of Istanbul, you’ll leave with a deeper understanding of world events and international politics.

And the views! Istanbul is very hilly, so there’s a lot of overlooks that offer sweeping vistas of the waterways and the ancient buildings. Sunsets are spectacular. This is a city that can take your breath away, over and over again.

We did mention the food, but I’ll mention it again. The lamb is incredible. Really. And the fish and seafood are amazing, too. You can go to the fish store, pick out a whole fish, have them filet it right there, while it’s still practically flipping and flopping. The vegetables and fruit are so flavorful, and the dark colored dried apricots are positively addictive. While we try to avoid carbs, Turks eat three times their weight in bread every year, and they are masters.

There’s an inexpensive and extensive public transportation system to get you around. The same metro card works on trams, buses, subways, funiculars, ferries and even public toilets. Public transportation is safe, clean, reliable, quick and very frequent.

Cats! If you like cats, you’ll love Istanbul. There’s a huge stray cat population here, but they’re not really strays – they’re actually community pets. They are clean, very well cared for, fed and even a large percentage of them are vaccinated. They’re also wonderfully friendly and are always up for a nice rub.

I saved the two best things for last. First, it’s very, very affordable. While it’s very easy to let yourself overspend in the tourist areas, you can easily eat dinner out for $7 or $8 per person in the outlying neighborhoods. Groceries are also very affordable. At the time of this writing, inflation is very high in Turkey, so if you buy things produced out of the country, you will pay. But if you shop for locally produced goods and food, you’ll be getting a true bargain.

Secondly, we have been overwhelmed by the warmth and generosity of the people. We connected with people through Rotary, and they have been incredible – setting up tours for us, taking us out for dinner, making themselves available for questions, spending evenings with mezes and raki and sharing our experiences. It’s been rich and wonderful and exemplifies exactly what we hoped to achieve with a nesting lifestyle.

What we Didn’t Like About Istanbul

While reports by the city say that the water is fine to drink, I wouldn’t trust it, and neither do most people. You will want to find an apartment with water delivery services. You need to use boiled water to wash vegetables and probably even brush your teeth. As you’re there longer, your body will adjust, but both of us had bouts of nausea from the water.

Istanbul is a very busy place, and it can be difficult to walk the streets. Along with big crowds, there are motor bikes weaving through the people, often going down sidewalks and the wrong way down one way streets. There are very narrow streets with even narrower sidewalks, often with cars parked on them or sidewalk cafes taking over the walking areas. There are steps down to underground entrances with no railings. The streets are steep, so there’s stairs. Tourists stop in the middle of everything to consult their cells. It’s crazy. You have to watch and be aware and it’s a good idea to have a safe place for your wallet in the very touristy areas.

Trash isn’t very well managed here. People pretty much just put their trash out in bags on the street, and men come by pulling big wagons and pick it up, but it’s not on any specific schedule. Therefore, there can be trash around. None of it is old and smelly; it just can get a little unsightly.

Turkey, unfortunately, is a nation of smokers. Even in restaurants.

Because of the very high inflation in Turkey, many people keep their money in different currencies and then just take cash out of ATMs when needed. As a result, the commissions on ATMs are quite high – 7 or 8% at this writing. It’s a very good idea to get a credit card with low to no exchange fees if you come here. If you bring cash in dollars or Euros you will probably be able to negotiate better deals at the bazaar and for some other purchases.

Related to the high inflation, currently, life can be tough for the locals. Like anywhere else with lots of tourists and a large difference in income for some of the people, there will be people attempting to scam you. Find out general prices on items before you shop in the bazaar and bazaar area. (I often check the item on Amazon.) Don’t go with people who try to hustle you. If a shoe shine guy drops his brush in front of you, don’t pick it up to hand it back to him – he’ll try to rope you into a high-priced shoe shine. Set prices first before getting into a taxi. We’ve found the Turkish people to be deeply generous and wonderful after you build relationships, but know that if those who are trying to survive here see you as an easy source of money, they may try to take advantage of you.