Dubrovnik is not very large, but it’s very, very steep and hilly. It’s easy to underestimate your ability to walk places just by looking at a map, because maps rarely show the elevation. You could easily book an apartment that looks close to the Old City, only to realize that you have to climb hundreds of stairs to get to your home after a day of touring. If you’re looking for places to stay, realize that the further inland you are (near highway 8) the steeper the climb. By the time you get to the highway, if you are standing by your front door facing the water, you will almost certainly be looking down at the roof of the house across the street. It’s nice to leave with toned legs, but you might not want to deal with that every day. And remember when looking at photos of apartments, a great view means you have to climb up there to see it.

Having read that, you might just think that staying in the Old City might be the answer. I’d avoid it. The Old City is very steep, too, and can be very noisy and crowded. It’s also certainly the most expensive area and there is only one tiny grocery store inside the walls, and none others nearby.

The area by the harbor, Graz, could be a good choice, although that is a very steep area. Right down by the water is where you’ll find the biggest grocery stores in the city, and also the daily farmer’s market. It’s where most of the actual locals who live in Dubrovnik live, so it’s a little more authentic. But it’s far enough away with enough elevation that you will probably want to take a bus when you go to the Old City.

Lapad or Babin Kuk are two options. Babin Kuk is where a lot of luxury seaside hotels are located, and there is a nice walking trail along the water. Lapad is also hilly, but without the huge amount of stairs you’d find in Graz. There are some nice restaurants there, and Sunset Beach, the cove between the two areas, is a very popular place. You’d probably still want to take a bus, though, to get to the Old City.

We nested between the Pile Gate and Lapad, just a little past the public car park that’s on every map. For us, it was perfect. It was close enough to walk to both the Old City (although still about 200 stairs to get home) and the grocery stores. We lived off a pedestrian walkway, so it was very quiet and peaceful. And we had our own little garden terrace that overlooked orange trees and a slice of the Adriatic.

However, if we were to do it again, I’d seriously look at not getting an apartment in Dubrovnik at all, but looking in Cavtat. It’s a beautiful little town south of Dubrovnik that is very well served by both buses and a ferry that goes directly to the Old Town harbor. Remember that nesting here is more about nesting in a region than a specific city, and Dubrovnik is by far the most expensive and the most crowded place to be. You probably won’t want to go to the Old City all that many days because there’s really only a few days worth of sights there, and when you want to, you can easily visit from Cavtat. Cavtat is beautiful, much less expensive and has a much more relaxed vibe. You’ll miss the hoards of tourists following little flags held by tourguides that are all over the place in Dubrovnik and you’ll probably get a more authentic feel for the area.