We have had two beliefs about getting a place for a nest. One was never to be in the city center. In Chaing Mai, this is wrong. Go for a place in the Old City. This is for a lot of reasons. First, it’s really hard to walk around on the streets outside the Old City. The cars and scooters go really fast, there are often no sidewalks, and it can be quite dangerous. Inside the Old City, there are few large streets, and everything is slower. Plus you’re closer to most of what you want to see and do.

Secondly, believe it or not, it will most likely be quieter. The scooters and trucks are really loud when they go fast, and they can’t go fast in the Old Town. The Old Town is as much a neighborhood as anywhere else, with schools and homes, so you’re just as likely to get a loud bar nearby outside the Old Town as inside. Thirdly, it’s the heart and soul of Chiang Mai. While Nimman is full of great restaurants and more upscale apartments, it’s a bit sterile and doesn’t quite have the flavor of the city.

However, if you’re going in rainy season in the fall, be aware that the area around the river often floods. While the area between the old walls and the river is a vibrant and popular place, you risk dealing with floodwaters in the fall. There was a major flood while we were there that was much worse than usual, and the area south of the Old Town also flooded. However, nothing within the city walls flooded, even one that severe.

While it’s perfectly safe, the part of the city directly out of the main eastern gate going towards the river is the red light district. There are plenty of reputable places to stay there, but it’s something to be aware of.

While this area also flooded while we were there, across the river on the northern side of the city would also be an interesting place to stay. In times past, when western missionaries came to the city, they were not allowed to live in the Old Town, so that’s the area that they settled. There are schools, hospitals and churches in the area, and it’s a bit more Western looking without being sterile and losing the character of the city. The true expat area now, though, is Nimman, which is at the north west corner outside of Old Town. It’s where we stayed on recommendation from some expats. It’s glitzy and full of restaurants and mall shopping and a comfortable place to be, but if I were to do it again, I’d absolutely look for a place in the Old Town.

When you come to Chiang Mai, don’t use any of the usual platforms to find a place to stay. Technically, Airbnb and the like are illegal in Thailand. You won’t have a lot of selection if you look there. Plus, the prices will be significantly higher – I’m talking four to six times what you would pay for the same apartment if you go through local sites. Because there is such a huge expat population here, there are plenty of companies that rent out short term furnished apartments and speak English. Here are two of them:

Perfect homes    

66 Property

Another way to find a place is to go up on Facebook to the expat communities in Chaing Mai. Try Expats and Locals Living in Chiang Mai. You can post your desired dates and what you’re hoping for, and as there are many expats who live in Chiang Mai part time, they look for people to sublet. It’s also not too risky to just come with hotel reservations and then look when you get here if you’re not coming in the high season, which is end of November through February. There’s a lot available and as long as you don’t have really strict or special stipulations, you will most likely find something that will work for you. Just be in touch before you get here and make connections and then arrive with an open mind. (But make sure you get an apartment with air conditioning.) Ask about additional costs. Usually you will pay for electricity yourself.

Things to know about Chiang Mai apartments.

1. The kitchens are really minimal. It will probably just be one or two burners, no oven, no dishwasher, a small fridge, a sink and a microwave. Lots of people don’t cook because restaurant food is so inexpensive. It probably won’t be well stocked with cooking supplies.
2. You will probably only have hot water in the shower. Not the bathroom sink and not even the kitchen sink, which makes washing dishes hard. You’ll have to heat water to wash dishes.
3. The tap water is not potable. You can arrange to have water delivered to your apartment. Ask your landlord.
4. You don’t flush toilet paper. Instead, there are hoses that you spray yourself with, and then use the toilet paper to dry yourself off, and then throw it away in the trash. You’ll find this everywhere in Chiang Mai, in every bathroom.
5. They use western style plugs but the electricity is 220v. Without an adaptor, things like hair dryers or other things with heating units will immediately burn out.
6. There are really inexpensive laundry services. Often the person working in the lobby of your apartment building can arrange it for you.