Visa requirements

None. Maximum stay for Americans is six months. Recommended to always carry a photocopy of your passport and the page with your entrance stamp. Also, you will need a copy of an airline itinerary to return you to your home country when you board the plane to go to Panama.

Currency

This is easy. Panama uses the US dollar. No exchanges, no tracking rates. However, make sure you bring more than one major bank card – Bocas del Toro only has one ATM in the entire area, in Bocas Town. My bank card, from a smaller US bank, didn’t work at the Bocas ATM, even though it worked in Florence and York, so it’s good to bring more than one option.

When to Go

Suprisingly, it’s hotter in December and January than any other months of the year, and May and June are the coolest months. Every month of the year, however, is swimsuit weather, so there’s no fear of going when you won’t have beach time. In Bocas, there’s usually at least a little rain every day, but rain here is short and fierce and dries up and goes away quickly. December through April is considered the high season, and May and then August through November is considered the low season. You can get average temperatures and rainfall for the region here.

How to Get There

Getting to Bocas is not easy. It’s probably why there are so many unspoiled beaches and jungles – there’s just not that many people who are adventurous enough to attempt the trip! There is a tiny airport in Bocas town with flights from Panama City and from San Jose, Costa Rica. Important to know though, is that Panama City has two airports – one for larger commercial flights and then one for small planes, and of course, the flight to Bocas leaves from the second one – so you will have to travel across town from one airport to the other. The planes are small and have strict luggage weight restrictions. It is also possible to take a bus from Panama City to Almirante, an eleven hour trip, and then get a water taxi to Bocas, but you won’t have to worry about luggage restrictions and it’s much cheaper. A third option is to fly in and out of San Jose in Costa Rica . You will be able to switch planes to Bocas at the same airport, or you can also take a bus or van to Almirante and get a water taxi.

Language

The primary language in Bocas is Spanish, but you will have no problem getting by with just English. You may also hear mixtures of English, Spanish and parts of the seven indigenous languages in Panama, a language the natives call Guari-Guari.

Grocery Shopping

Grocery shopping may take a little getting used to in Bocas town. There’s no shortage of stores – amazingly, in the tiny town of Bocas, there’s seventeen grocery stores. They are all run by Chinese immigrants (except for the “gourmet store”) and all carry the same food. Some are larger than others, but if you can’t find something in one store, chances are, you’re out of luck. The grocery stores are best for buying dry goods, canned goods, cleaning supplies and toiletries. You will find almost no commercial frozen food in the grocery stores, and that which you will find is highly suspect. Many commercial frozen items had “Kirkland” brand labels, and the nearest Costco is in Mexico City! Dairy is expensive and in short supply. The only milk sold is in ultra-pasteurized, sterilized non refrigerated boxes. Cheese, butter and yogurt are very expensive. The meat in the grocery stores looks very suspect, and there’s a very limited variety of fresh fruits and vegetables. The only bright spot in all of that is that most grocery stores take credit cards.

After I went to the first grocery store, I was very concerned about my ability to make healthy, tasty meals in Bocas – but it really proved to be untrue. I just needed to adapt. The first thing I tried was the fruit and vegetable booths that are hidden all over town. While there still wasn’t much variety, I quickly learned that the quality and price of the produce there was terrific. You’ll get the very best pineapples you’ve ever had! My favorite veggie stand was on the street with the bank, just north of the main street past the coffee bar. They also sold lovely organic eggs and when I was lucky I found dixie cups of frozen fruit juice for 25c in the freezer – wonderfully refreshing on a hot day. You just squeeze up from the bottom and eat it like a popsicle! Only cash accepted. Common items found: pineapples, watermelon, bell peppers, tomatoes, bananas, yucca, potatoes, cabbage, passion fruit, papayas, carrots, garlic. Items often found: zucchini, eggplant, cucumber, apples, avocados, broccoli, plantains, fresh ginger, lettuce.

The meat and fish in the grocery stores are pretty sketchy,  but happily there are much better options on the island. Probably the most accessible is Tutty’s. She is located just past the ferry where the street bends after the gourmet grocery (nearly across the street from where we were nesting.) Tutty sells fish, chicken, pork and beef, mostly frozen, but if you’re lucky, you’ll catch things when they first come in, fresh. She speaks perfect English and takes credit cards. Go for the fish and seafood – it’s superb and quite affordable. (Tuna for $5.50 lb when I was there.) There are a few other fish and meat places on the island, too. There’s a good one by El Capitain restaurant. You’ll probably have to ask someone to find it – it’s down a narrow alley literally in someone’s backyard, but they have a great selection there, and often a little cheaper than Tutty’s.  You’ll probably find you eat a lot more fish and seafood here, just because of the cost and quality.

You can get beautiful shrimp, mahi mahi and tuna nearly all the time, along with calamari. Look for the langusta – rock lobster – that is native to the area. It’s like a giant crawfish, all tail, sweet and delicious! You’ll also see pargo for sale – it’s red snapper, and it’s wonderful.

Foods that are difficult to get here: You are going to need to be adaptable here.  As I mentioned, dairy is very expensive. You will have a very limited selection of vegetables, pretty much just what is in season. There is virtually no frozen food in the supermarkets.  Your best bet is to eat as locally as you can. The food will much less expensive, and much better, too.

Other Shopping

There’s not a lot of options for shopping in Bocas del Toro. For day to day necessities, there’s the “Walmart” of the island, a three story place called Toto, which is a few blocks back from main street, closer to the ferry dock. If you want to buy gifts, there are a few options. There are just a few gift stores along the main street. Probably the best is Kakao Culture. They sell some very interesting custom and handmade jewelry, sarongs, and some local crafts. There’s also some booths along main street run by indigenous people who sell beautiful handmade

molas – a brightly colored pieced fabric art, and some intricate beadwork. You will also find some booths with hammocks, carvings, and gourd paintings. Probably the best value is the small tables that are sometimes set up along the main street with jewelry makers. Don’t walk by without a look. Some of these are very talented men who work in silver and semi-precious stones, and their work is often stunning. They expect you to bargain with them, and the resulting prices can be a real steal.

Connecting with the Local Community

We took Spanish lessons for the entire time we were there at Habla Ya, and met most of the people we interacted with there. They have events every day for students.

Habla Ya would also be a good place to check out for volunteer work. They have three different opportunities set up for anyone who is interested. The first is helping the native population learn English. You can go there Tuesday and Thursday nights and volunteer to teach English lessons. The second is working with the elementary school on Carenara Island. The native population there is very poor, and the school struggles with everything from trash pickup to instructional materials. Habla Ya will help set up short term volunteer teaching and aide positions for you. The third opportunity is helping in a small nursing home in Bocas town. It houses about 25 people who could use visits and help with day to day tasks.

Favorite Restaurants

You can eat well here for $5 a meal if you go Panamanian. You can also have a wonderful, five course European-style meal for $25 per person.  There are some pretty bad restaurants here, but there’s also some real winners. Here are a few of our favorites:

Guari-Guari – Our favorite, hands down. It’s a bit out of town, on the isthmus, just past the gas station. If you didn’t know it was there, you’d totally miss it so take a taxi the first time. Guari-Guari (named for the local dialect) offers a five course price fixed meal, and you eat what they make that night – no choices. But that’s okay. You’ll be delighted, both by the charming waitstaff and the incredible food. When we were last there, we started with gaspacho, then had spinach crepes, a shrimp croquette, a lovely pork tenderloin in a creamy mustard sauce, and a deep, dark, rich chocolate mousse for dessert. Not bad for $25 per person! Absolutely must make reservations. Phone – +507 6627-1825

El Ultimo Refugio – In town, and a bit on the pricey side, but really nice food and a lovely setting on a pier overlooking the water. Closed on weekends.

Tom’s – If you want to go local and cheap, here’s the place. Most of the Panamanian food you’ll get is pretty much the same for the same price (about $5 a plate) but Tom’s has a great view and makes wonderful bastidos (smoothies and milkshakes) as well. It’s upstairs in the two story building with the painted front near the Police Station – just ask for Tom’s, and don’t be put off by the walk through the building to get there.

Festivals/Events

We were in Bocas del Toro for their Mardis Gras, or Carnivale, which is very different than anything in our country! Young men and boys dress up as very elaborate “diablos” or devils, and dance in the streets, attempting to scare tourists and crack their whips at unsuspecting people. It’s all great and rowdy fun, and the costumes are amazing. In true Caribbean form, one night is not enough to fit in all the festivities – you’ll find diablos on the streets up to a week before Carnivale itself.

Health Care

Health care is a major downside of visiting Bocas del Toro. Simply put, don’t get hurt or sick. There is one small, run-down hospital in Bocas Town, and I’ve heard nothing but horror stories about it, including being told people must bring their own toilet paper, food and clean bedding. There is a new hospital under construction, but it could be quite a while before it’s open for business. Currently, people are med-evaced to David for care like broken bones and to Panama City for more serious emergencies. If you have a condition that could require serious medical care, please take this into consideration before you come here to nest.

Discounts

If you want to go through the time and expense of getting a pensioner’s residency in Panama, there are a lot of discounts for meals, hotels, travel and more available – but it’s a long, drawn out bureaucratic process that will take a few days waiting around in government buildings. There is also a cost involved, so it’s probably not worth it unless you’re planning on returning to Panama.

There are a few websites that you can buy or sell items on in Bocas del Toro.  Probably the best is the Facebook page Bocas Buy and Sell.

When Packing for Bocas del Toro, make sure you bring...

Crocs.  I know they aren’t stylish, but they are by far the most practical footwear there. Think about this for a moment – you’re in a tropical rain forest with very little pavement. There’s mud everywhere. There’s even occasional quicksand on the beaches. (Small little places, nothing that will necessitate a dramatic rescue of anything but a flip-flop.) There’s sometimes broken glass. Flip-flops are often not enough protection, but crocs can get wet and dirty but keep your feet safe. They also are light to pack.

LifeStraw Waterbottles. It’s hot and you need to drink a lot, but the water isn’t potable. This is why you really need your LifeStraw. I highly recommend this brand because it’s the best for filtering out not just sediment in the water, but actually getting out most bacterias.

Bug repellent. Yeah, sadly it’s an issue. Not so much for mosquitos, although Bocas has its share, especially in the jungle. It’s the sand fleas, or in Bocas slang, the “chitras” that will drive you nuts. They come out on the beaches especially after a rain, and can really bite up your feet and ankles. They seem to be worst on Carenero Island, with Bibi’s Beach being ground zero. We brought anklets that had citronella inserts in them that helped, but when the fleas are bad, you really need your Deet.